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Wooden cup / Finnish "Kuksa"![]() Material:![]() My local hardware store recently offered cheap spruce boards. Well... most of the stuff was actually unusable but the price was too tempting and one of the boards showed a nice grain pattern. After sifting throug the rest of the pallet I finally found 3 boards I liked and decided to try a Finish "Kuksa"... Modelling:![]() The cup is modeled in Alibre Design. Quite simple and finished in a few minutes... You can download the file at the end of this page... Cutting blanks:![]() To save material and cutting time I've decided to cut slightly oversized blanks rather than machining a rectangular block... Glueing:![]() The cup is about 85mm high so I've selected the best five 18mm blanks and glued them together... Alignment template:![]() To make alignment easy the cups outline is cut into the spoil board... Fixing:![]() Then the whole block is glued to the spoild board with 5 minute expoxy resin... Bad Idea??? Well wait until later ;-) Roughing the upper side:![]() Roughing the upper side of the cup... ![]() The tool I've used is acutally not long enough to cut down to the bottom. But it is long enough to clear the inside and reach a level deep enough to pass the largest dimensions in the X/Y plane so it doesn't matter because we can later flip the part and machine the rest from the other side... Finishing the upper side:![]() Changed from a regular end mill to a ball nose end mill... ![]() Again the tool is too short but it doesn't matter... Releasing the cup:![]() So how do we separate the cup from the spoil board? Well... many fast curing epoxy resins are heat sensitive and will get soft at temperatures above 100°C. If you put them into the oven and wait a few minutes the cup will just fall off... But check your resin first - I've used "Krick 5 Minuten Epoxy" and "Uhu Sofortfest" will also work but some will not... Another solution is non-waterproof wood glue... Machining the other side![]() This time precise placement is absolutely crucial. If you're off by 0.1mm you'll have to sand a lot and if you're off by 1mm you can throw the part into the bin... So again I've cut a snugly fitting template to align the cup automatically with perfect precision... ![]() My template cut is 5mm deep. To get the correct shape I've just created a temporary cut view where the topmost 5mm are removed: Roughing the lower side:![]() ![]() Finishing the lower side:![]() ![]() And another template for the cups handle hole:![]() Machining the handle hole![]() ![]() For the handle hole I've created a separate STL file showing just the hole and put the origin into its center... Final steps
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() You can download all files for the cup here... | |||||||||